Formlabs Form 3+ Review (2023)

The Formlabs Form 3+ is a stereolithography (SLA) 3D printer geared to professionals. Formlabs describes the Form 3+ (starts at $2,499; $4,249 as tested) as an industrial-quality desktop 3D printer, particularly good for rapid prototyping by product designers, as well as parts production. Indeed, it is capable of printing high-quality parts, and the Complete Package that we tested provides a full 3D printing solution (except for resin and sandpaper). You may find that there is a considerable learning curve in mastering the Form 3+, however. Formlabs' customer service is responsive, though, and helps to resolve problems as they crop up, which means the Form 3+ can be a powerful and reliable tool for your workbench.

A History of Impressive SLA Printers

I first encountered Formlabs at World Maker Faire New York more than a decade ago, when the company's first 3D printer, the Form 1, was in crowdfunding. I remember a representative showing me a 3D-printed chess set made on the Form 1; the print quality of the pieces was impressive, especially compared with the rough-hewn look of prints from many of the mostly filament-based printers typical of its day. It seemed to me that Formlabs was on to something special, and the Form 1+ was one of the first 3D printers—and the first SLA printer—that I reviewed. My experience with it convinced me of the promise of stereolithography in terms of print quality and resolution, while also revealing this method's many challenges.

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Formlabs Form 3+ Review (1)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Stereolithography was the first 3D printing technology to be developed. In an SLA printer, an ultraviolet laser shines into a vat of UV-curable liquid resin, tracing a cross section of the object to be printed on the resin, and in the process curing (solidifying) the resin layer by layer until it forms the printed model. A translucent (but opaque to ultraviolet light) orange hood covers the Form 3+, preventing the resin from being accidentally cured through any appreciable exposure to sunlight. (One can briefly open the cover, say to remove or attach the build plate, without any apparent ill effects to the resin.)

Compared with filament-based printers—also known as fused filament fabrication (FFF) or fused deposition modeling (FDM) printers—the printing process for SLA models is inverted. The build plate—the surface to which the object being printed adheres during the printing process—is suspended upside-down from an arm above the resin tank, into which it is dipped time and again as each layer is printed.

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The Virtues of Using Less Force

While the Formlabs Form 1+ and Form 2 are traditional SLA printers, printers in the Form 3 series—including the Form 3, Form 3+, Form 3B, and Form 3BL (the latter two geared to the healthcare industry)—use low-force stereolithography (LFS). LFS is an SLA variant that drastically reduces the forces exerted on parts during the print process, according to Formlabs. It does this by combining a flexible resin tank with an improved light processing unit (LPU) where the laser beam is generated. LFS is said to produce smooth parts with fine details and sharp points.

In addition to the printer and build plate, the Form 3+ includes a finishing kit containing two small tanks for dunking prints, plus tools and nitrile gloves for handling the resin and isopropyl alcohol (IPA). That's everything found in the Basic Package, while our test unit is the Complete Package, which adds washing and curing units (which Formlabs calls Form Wash and Form Cure). Formlabs sells the Complete Package for $4,249 directly, but you should check with your preferred 3D printing supplier to see if a lower negotiated price is available.

When a print is completed, the build plate ascends to the top of the printer, and the build plate with its object still attached can be unlatched and placed in a holder at the top of the Form Wash, which holds approximately two gallons of IPA. Alternatively, you can place an object that has already been removed from the build plate in the wire basket, as shown in the photo below, for the wash process. Both the printer (when the hood is in place) and the Form Wash (when closed) are well-sealed, so I hardly ever noticed fumes from either the resin or alcohol during the printing process.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (20)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Once the top of the Form Wash is closed and the user starts a wash by pressing a button at the bottom, the machine will churn the alcohol, rinsing the object. When the 20-minute rinse cycle is done, the user can remove the object and place it in the Form Cure. The unit heats the object to 140 degrees F, then cures it with UV light, a process that takes about an hour.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (21)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Testing the Formlabs Form 3+: Setup and Operation

Setting up the Form 3+ is simple, at least in principle. You attach the build plate to its arm, which is done by pulling a lever up, sliding the plate into place, and then depressing the lever. You then plug in the printer and turn it on. Next, tap the printer icon at the top left of the LCD screen, and you'll see a diagram of the printer showing the status of the resin cartridge, build platform, and resin tank.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (22)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

The resin tank comes in a tray, with a lid made of the same UV-opaque orange polymer as the printer's hood. To install it, you open the hood, remove the tank from its tray and take off the lid, then insert the tray into the lower part of the printer, working it toward the back until it clicks into place. You then seat the mixer bar (which stirs the resin) on its carriage on the left edge of the tank.

Finally, you take a resin cartridge and put it in the cartridge receptacle at the back of the printer, opening the top valve by pressing it down (as you would the pressable valve found on shampoo bottles). If all is in order, the cartridge, platform, and tank on the the LCD screen will glow blue.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (23)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

The Form 3+ can connect directly to a computer via USB, or over a network via Wi-Fi or Ethernet. I did all my test printing from my computer over Wi-Fi. To connect the printer to Wi-Fi, you identify your network (the same one that your computer is on) from the list of available networks accessible through the printer's settings, and enter its password, which it will save.

To prepare an object for printing, you open it in PreForm, the company's 3D printing software, which is available as a free download. Its operation is similar to Ultimaker Cura and other 3D printing programs you may have used. You load a file (in STL or OBJ format), and the object will be rendered in the virtual build area onscreen. You can move, resize, and duplicate it; change its orientation; and automatically fix issues it identifies.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (24)

(Credit: Formlabs)

It may prompt you to add supports to keep the object stable and well-formed during printing. You can add a full raft at the bottom of the print, or mini rafts around each support. You can click on the Job Setup menu to select the printer, and make sure its resin type, resolution, and other settings are correct. When you are satisfied that all is in order, tapping the printer icon in the vertical menu at the screen's left-hand edge will send the print to the printer and then launch the print.

Foibles, Quirks, and Finickiness

At least this is how the printer operates in theory. In my experience, various issues cropped up along the way. For starters, the tray was not identifying the cartridge, and vice-versa. I emailed our Formlabs contact, who let me know that our test unit comes with a one-year service contract, which includes a a representative giving a 45-minute introduction to the Form 3+. So I availed myself of the introduction, which was helpful—in addition to getting a good overview, I was able to ask various questions related to the printer.

I also made two calls to the company's service line, which were equally helpful. For instance, regarding the seeming cartridge-tank incompatibility, I discovered that a tank becomes paired with the cartridge it is first used with (though it can be reprogrammed). This makes sense in that you don't want to accidentally mix resin types, but it is true even before any resin has been poured into the tank. This is compounded by the fact that the tank and cartridge must each make an electrical connection with the printer, and the tank connection in particular proved balky; it required several attempts until it was properly seated, and a little more force than I would have applied had I not been told that it might be necessary.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (25)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Another issue was in getting the tank to fill during the priming process in preparing for the first print. I was told that I would save a lot of time if I manually poured some resin into the tank after removing the cartridge from its bay in the back of the printer, and once the resin reached a certain level, reseating the cartridge. Although I did this, the resin still would not flow from the reseated cartridge. After another call to the help line, I shook the cartridge (more vigorously than I had in the initial setup), manipulated a valve on the cartridge's underside, and stirred the resin (with a chopstick). Now the tank filled, but very slowly. I found out that this particular 10K Rigid resin was tricky to work with, since it contains glass particles, which help its rigidity but also add to its viscosity. I shook and stirred the tank again, and squeezed the bottom valve, and this time I could print with it. I soon switched (using another tank) to the draft resin.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (26)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Formlabs sells a variety of resins in liter bottles for the Form 3+, ranging in price from $149 to $299. (Other resins, such as biomedical ones, are not suitable for this printer.) Selecting resins appropriate for your work is one task you will want to do your research on, and perhaps speak to a company representative before you buy.

The Challenge of Separating Print From Plate

Another issue I encountered was difficulty in removing completed prints from the build plate, even when using the supplied scraping tool to try to pry them up. I found some pointers to facilitate object removal from the build plate in Formlabs' online help resources—ironically, both heating and cooling the object and build plate were on the list. Of the two, putting the object and build plate in the freezer (after bagging them, to protect any food from the mildly toxic resin) for a couple of hours seemed to work the best. We did not have a chance to test Formlabs' Build Platform 2 (a $229 accessory), which allows you to flex a metal sheet that covers the platform. This lets users quickly and easily remove objects from the platform without tools, according to Formlabs.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (27)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Another related problem concerned the proper type of raft and supports, in light of the fact that prying the print off the build plate may be no easy task. Although supports can usually be easily clipped and/or pulled off the print, if the raft breaks while you're trying to remove it from the plate, supports attached to it may be wrenched in an unexpected direction, potentially breaking delicate parts such as a leg of the lunar lander shown above—I left the supports attached to that print to show what a thicket they can create. This is more of an issue with large objects than with small ones that have relatively few supports.

Formlabs Form 3+ Test Prints: Brilliant Quality, Sharp Shapes

All told, I printed nine test objects, seven using gray draft resin and two with white 10K Rigid resin, and all at 100-micron layer height. There were no misprints. Once a print was launched, it continued until completion.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (28)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

One of the objects we use for 3D printer testing has text and geometric shapes that are rendered on a sharply inclined surface. It turned out exceptionally well. The shapes and text were well-formed, and although it looked like a layer was skipped in two places, that was only apparent when I looked at it from up close.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (29)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

I had originally printed the same object using supports and a full raft, but felt that the presence of supports interfered with the goal of the test, and removing supports broke some of the finest detail on the print. I reprinted the object with neither supports nor raft; such props proved to be superfluous as the quality of the reprint was magnificent. Some objects, though, require supports, and mastering their use is a learning process.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (30)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (31)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

Even a Grogu (baby Yoda) print turned out surprisingly well. While larger such prints we've produced using filament-based 3D printers often have poorly formed fingers and ears, the Formlabs Grogu print was nearly perfect despite its diminutive size.

Formlabs Form 3+ Review (32)

(Credit: Joseph Maldonado)

I also printed several more small objects with supports; they were easy enough to clip, and sanding removed any real trace of them.

Verdict: State-of-the-Art Stereolithography on Your Desk

Early stereolithography 3D printers were enormous contraptions costing in the five- or six-figure range. But Formlabs has been at the vanguard of creating relatively affordable, professional-grade desktop SLA printers. The Form 3+ supports a full low-force SLA 3D printing workflow nearly out of the box, though you have to buy the resin and a few extras such as sandpaper separately. Moreover, it produced high-quality prints in testing.

Don't expect everything to work smoothly from the start, though. You may well need to make several calls to the company's phone support representatives, who we found to be helpful overall. Mastering this powerful yet complex product takes some time—we could have easily spent a few more weeks testing it—but the results are worth the effort.

Formlabs Form 3+


(Video) Formlabs Form 3 SLA 3D Printer Review!

(Opens in a new window)

See It$2,499.00 at Source Graphics(Opens in a new window)

Base Configuration Price $2,499.00


  • Excellent print quality

  • Full SLA workflow solution

  • Nearly fume-free operation

  • USB, Wi-Fi, and Ethernet connectivity

  • Responsive phone customer service

View More


  • Difficult to remove printed objects

  • Problematic resin-tray seating process

  • Steep learning curve for using supports

  • Requires lots of isopropyl alcohol

View More

The Bottom Line

The Formlabs Form 3+ is a professional-grade stereolithography 3D printer that can print magnificently detailed objects, but mastering its use can be a challenge.

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(Video) When Lasers aren’t fast enough: Form 3+ Speed and Quality Benchmarks!


Formlabs Form 3+ Review? ›

It works quickly, is easy to set up and use, and prints with great quality. It's not cheap, though: the package that we tested costs just under $5k. That could buy you two or three other cheaper printers, like the Photon Mono X, and a print finishing system.

Is Formlabs Form 3 worth it? ›

The Formlabs Form 3 is in top form

The Form 3 shouldn't be your first choice if you're new to 3D printing given its lofty price, but if you have a business that requires consistent results and fantastic support then we can't recommend it enough.

What is the difference between Formlabs 3 and 3B+? ›

Main difference from a standard Form 3+ printer is that the 3B+ is certified to use biocompatible materials and allows printing with all Formlabs resins. LFS printing engine is the same in both printers.

What is the best Formlabs 3D printer? ›

Brimming with sensors and processes, and complemented by software that completely takes the “3D printing” out of 3D printing, the Formlabs Form 3 is the easiest to use and most reliable machine we've gone hands-on with yet. For high-detail, small-batch, and even fast prototyping, the Form 3 is the printer for you.

What size print is Formlabs 3+? ›

The build volume of the Form 2 is 145 × 145 × 175 mm. The Form 3 uses the same build platform, but can lift it slightly higher, for a build volume of 145 × 145 × 185 mm. For full details, read the tech specs page.

Why did 3D Systems sue Formlabs? ›

3D Systems sued Formlabs in 2012 for infringement of No. 5,597,520 Patent (“the '520 Patent”), granted to 3D Systems in 1997. 3D Systems at *5. The patent covered different parts of the stereolithographic three-dimensional printing process, which uses a laser to cure liquid plastic.

How long does a Formlabs tank last? ›

Estimated lifetime for most applications: 600–800 hours of printing. Actual lifetime will depend on the accumulation of physical damage to the tank films.

Is 3D resin stronger than PLA? ›

Yes, resin prints have stronger mechanical properties than PLA prints, but that doesn't mean they are rendered useless. PLA is used in a lot of 3D printing applications ranging from replacement parts, tooling accessories and architectural models.

How long does Formlabs resin last? ›

Formlabs resins last for 12 to 24 months in the resin cartridge, depending on the resin type. Learn more about resin lifetime and storage to determine if your resin has expired.

What is the strongest resin Formlabs? ›

Tough 2000 Resin is the strongest and stiffest material in our functional family of Tough and Durable Resins. Choose Tough 2000 Resin for prototyping strong and sturdy parts that should not bend easily.

Who are Formlabs top competitors? ›

Top 6 Formlabs competitors
  • Shapeways.
  • Markforged.
  • Desktop Metal.
  • Carbon.
  • Sinterit.
  • Kraftwurx.

What 3D printer is the most widely used printer? ›

Fused deposition modeling (FDM), also known as fused filament fabrication (FFF), is the most widely used type of 3D printing at the consumer level.

Do Formlabs printers need ventilation? ›

Handling & Safety

Our resins have been designed to be similar or safer to handle as other household chemicals or adhesives. Formlabs materials do not contain volatile solvents so special ventilation is not required.

How much is a Formlabs 3 printer? ›

Formlabs Form 3+ price

This 3D printer is available from $ 3,4993 294 €2,900 £471,553 ¥.

What is the most common 3D printer size? ›

The sweet spot for most large 3D printers today is around 30 cm (11.8 in) in one of the dimensions and around 15-30 cm (5.9-11.8 in) in the remaining two.

Why 3D printing is not popular? ›

Using 3D printers and associated software is still too complex for the uninitiated, who prefer to continue using traditional production methods. 3D printing has qualities that are highly sought after by industry (complexity of patterns, strength of materials)... but much less so by individuals.

Does NASA use 3D printers? ›

NASA and Metal 3D Printing

Because many of the parts needed on space missions are aluminum, titanium, and steel, NASA is also working with a number of small businesses to develop metal printing capabilities for ISS. On Earth, the preferred metal 3D printing method for aerospace is selective laser melting (SLM).

How toxic is Formlabs resin? ›

Formlabs designs its standard resins to be as safe as or safer to handle than common household chemicals or adhesives. When measuring potential acute health effects of inhalation or ingestion, there are no known significant effects or critical hazards.

Does Formlabs resin smell? ›

It depends on your choice of resin. The printer, when off and storing no resin, smells like nothing really – pretty much like any powertool. Some metal, some grease, some plastic, but only if you pay very close attention. But when it's on it has airflow, so it'll smell like whatever resin you are using.

Can you refill Formlabs cartridge? ›

Formlabs does not recommend refilling resin cartridges. Formlabs does not recommend refilling resin cartridges due to the risk of contamination and subsequent print failures.

What are the pros and cons of a resin 3D printer? ›

While resin 3D printers can produce better quality parts than filament printers, they fall short when it comes to part strength and durability. Resin parts are often weak and brittle, so they have relatively few end-use applications.

What is the hardest plastic for 3D printing? ›

Polycarbonate. According to multiple manufacturers and reviewers, polycarbonate (PC) is considered the strongest consumer filament out there. PC can yield extremely high-strength parts when printed correctly with an all-metal hot end and an enclosure.

What are the hardest resin for 3D printing? ›

COR Alpha is the strongest, most durable, and heat-resistant 3D printing resin on the market.

What is an alternative to Formlabs resin? ›

The best alternatives to Glitter Resin by Formlabs are Glowforge, FormBox, and 3D Hubs. If these 3 options don't work for you, we've listed over 30 alternatives below.

When should I replace my Formlabs resin tank? ›

Notice: Replace your resin tank if it is physically damaged (expected by 600–800 hours of printing, for most applications) or if it reaches its maximum lifetime (given in the table below), whichever comes first. No maximum lifetime. Estimated lifetime for most applications: 600–800 hours of printing.

Is SLA better than DLP? ›

As a rule of thumb, this results in SLA 3D printers being comparable or faster when printing small or medium-size single parts, while DLP 3D printers are faster to print large, fully dense prints, or builds with multiple parts that fill up much of the platform.

Which resin cures the hardest? ›

UltraClear Epoxy is harder, more durable, and more versatile than any other epoxy resin available on the market today.

What is the best material for Formlabs? ›

For the highest tensile strength among Formlabs materials, choose Rigid Resin. Other materials with high tensile strength include Standard Resin, Grey Pro Resin, and Tough Resin.

What resin sets the hardest? ›

Tough-Cast 65D is a two part casting resin that is virtually indestructible. It's designed to make durable prototypes, and reproductions. Tough-Cast 65D is a two component polyurethane casting resin that is virtually indestructible.

What is the most accurate 3D printing? ›

Stereolithography is one of the most precise 3D printing technologies in the world. It enables recreation on the printed models of even the finest details. The accuracy of the SLA printouts ranges from 0.1 mm to 0.2 mm.

What is the most precise 3D printing? ›

Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K

If you're looking for the most precise prints around, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K is your best choice. This MSLA resin 3D printer sports a 7.1-inch mono LCD screen that operates at 7500 x 3240, which results in a show-stopping 0.22mm XY resolution, the highest on the market.

Why choose Formlabs? ›

Why Choose Formlabs. As part of our mission to make 3D printing accessible to all, Formlabs 3D printers are reliable, affordable, and powerful. A wide library of high-performance materials unlocks multiple use cases.

Can you use any resin with Formlabs? ›

The resin properties that Formlabs has engineered in-house are closely linked with the printer hardware and software design. Third-party resins may recommend print settings but are unlikely to perform as well and may actually damage the printer or void the warranty. To print with third-party resins, use Open Mode.

Is Formlabs a unicorn? ›

Founded just over five years ago by three MIT graduates, today Formlabs is one of the 3D printing unicorns, the “proof” that 3D printing can democratize the future of manufacturing.

What is the most expensive type of 3D printer? ›

Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) is a 3D printing technology that fuses layers of powdered materials (polymers) into a solid object using a laser. SLS printers are the most expensive type of 3D printer, ranging in price from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Can you 3D print metal? ›

What Metals cannot be 3D Printed? Theoretically, any metal can be used for 3D printing if it is available as a suitable powder. However, materials that burn rather than melt at high temperatures cannot be processed safely by sintering or melting, but can be used when extruded through a nozzle for 3D printing.

Can you 3D print a gun? ›

At present, the 3D printed components only form some of the parts needed to make a gun, at most 80 to 90% of the weapon, Mr Perfect says. Key metal components such as the barrel typically have to be manufactured in more traditional ways. And the guns still require ammunition.

How bad is it to have a resin printer in your room? ›

Liquid 3D printing resins give off fumes or vapors containing volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful to humans if inhaled into the throat or lungs. Short-term exposure to resin fumes can result in dizziness, headaches, and throat irritation.

Can I leave the house with a 3D printer running? ›

Unfortunately, the short answer is: no, you shouldn't leave your printer unattended in the middle of a project because of safety issues. That may sound unreasonable, but the printer can be a fire hazard and you don't want to risk returning to a burnt down home or office.

Should I put my resin printer in my room? ›

Fumes. SLA/DLP printer resins contain skin irritants inside the solvent, and those create rather noxious fumes. As described in Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space that can become a health hazard, and can result in pulmonary irritation.

Is a Formlabs 3 worth it? ›

The Formlabs Form 3 is in top form

The Form 3 shouldn't be your first choice if you're new to 3D printing given its lofty price, but if you have a business that requires consistent results and fantastic support then we can't recommend it enough.

What is the difference between Formlabs 3+ and 3B+? ›

Main difference from a standard Form 3+ printer is that the 3B+ is certified to use biocompatible materials and allows printing with all Formlabs resins. LFS printing engine is the same in both printers.

How much should I pay for a 3D printer? ›

Low-cost 3D printer prices start from $100 to $400. Then hobbyist 3D printers will set you back by up to $1,000. The next level of enthusiast and professional 3D printer prices range between $1,000 to $10,000.

Do bigger 3D printers print faster? ›

The first place to start is increasing your nozzle size. Most 3D printers have a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, but you can increase the size of the nozzle to improve print speed. A larger nozzle can extrude more plastic per second, meaning that objects can be printed faster.

What is the minimum distance for a 3D printer? ›

The minimum travel distance is usually 1-2 mm, but you should adjust this value by 1-mm increments if you have issues.

What is a good bed size for a 3D printer? ›

With the average printing bed size of a 3D printer intended for general use being around 150–300mm, if you wanted to scale up the size of your 3D creations, a printer of 350mm–500mm would be ideal, and luckily, there are a few worthy large-scale models available on the market for you to choose from.

How accurate is the Form 3? ›

With accuracy tolerances for margin lines and die surfaces as tight as ± 35 microns on Dental Model Resin, the Form 3 delivers the same precision as large-format dental 3D printers that cost $35,000 or more.

What is the difference between Formlab 2 and 3? ›

A larger, higher resolution touchscreen.

The Form 3+ can be controlled completely digitally from the screen, while the Form 2 includes an additional button. A larger screen also enables future translations of the interface into new languages.

Which Formlabs resin has the highest impact strength? ›

More compliant materials can rate highly when it comes to absorbing sudden shock. For the highest impact strength among Formlabs materials, choose Durable Resin. Other materials with high impact strength include Tough Resin and Grey Pro Resin.

What percentage of 3D prints fail? ›

When your 3D printer is assembled properly, you might expect a failure rate of around 10-30% based on first layer adhesion and settings. With experience, a failure rate of 1-10% is normal.

Can you use other resin for Formlabs? ›

For further guidance about materials, consult the Formlabs material selector. Do not mix different resins (e.g., Clear Resin and Black Resin). Print settings for different resins are carefully calculated based on each resin's material properties, color, and curing settings.

Do resin prints degrade over time? ›

SLA prints are a photopolymer resin and have a tendency to degrade overtime because of UV exposure (that's what cures the resin to form a solid object).

Which 3D printer resin is the strongest? ›

COR Alpha is the strongest, most durable, and heat-resistant 3D printing resin on the market.

How much is Formlabs Form 3 Plus? ›

Formlabs Form 3+ price

This 3D printer is available from $ 3,4993 294 €2,900 £471,553 ¥.

Which 3D printer filament is strongest? ›

Polycarbonate (PC) delivers high tensile strength along with high impact and heat resistance. It's widely seen as one of the strongest 3D printing filaments.


1. Formlabs Form 3 & 3B Review
(Laser Lines Ltd - 3D Printers & Laser Systems)
2. From Design to 3D Print With the Form 3
3. Introducing Form 3+ and Form 3B+
4. Introducing the Form 3 and Form 3L: Powered by Low Force Stereolithography
5. The Full Form 3+ Workflow
6. Form 3 review // Form 3 vs. Form 2 // Form 3 Test und Vergleich!
(3Dee Technologies Austria)


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Job: Customer Sales Coordinator

Hobby: Gunsmithing, Embroidery, Parkour, Kitesurfing, Rock climbing, Sand art, Beekeeping

Introduction: My name is Roderick King, I am a cute, splendid, excited, perfect, gentle, funny, vivacious person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.