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The second technique: soaking. "Put the potted plant in a sink or bowl and pour water slowly onto the top of the soil. Keep going until about a half inch of water has gone through the pot and collected in the sink or bowl. Then let the plant soak—maybe even a full day.
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Aim to water 2-3 gallons, twice per week. To check if your watering is adequate, do a quick soil check. Push your finger a couple inches down into the soil around your plant. The top 2 inches should feel dry before you water again. If it's still dry below the surface, water deeply right away.
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Use rubbing alcohol (70% or higher) and just a wipe or dip will do. With the plant isolated, you'll can control the mold before it spreads. For the infected plant, prune off all the affected areas. You'll likely find the most affected parts of the plant are closer to the soil.
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Fill a 5-gallon bucket or container large enough to place the rose in and let it soak while you prep the pot. Trim off the rose canes down to 6 to 8 inches long. Remove all leaves as well. Partially fill your pot or can with a good potting soil if you don't have your own mix.
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Step 5. Fertilize the lilac bush. Use a fertilizer with a 5-10-5 nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium ratio on older plants that are not blooming. You may also use a 0-15-0 or 0-45-0 fertilizer. Fertilize once in the spring and once in the fall by digging a few holes in the soil next to each lilac plant and adding 1 cup of fertilizer to each hole.
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Fast action is necessary to cure the dying shrub. Pull the soil away from the base of the stems and upper roots. Place fresh soil over the roots after the stems and upper roots dry out. Water the shrub until the soil is wet to a depth of 1 to 2 feet, then allow the soil to dry before watering it again to prevent rot.
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Pests or disease: Insects like borers or a disease like boxwood blight can cause shrubs to change color. Water problems: Both too much and too little water can stress a shrub out and cause it to turn brown. Fertilizer overload: Pouring too much fertilizer into plant beds can essentially burn your shrubs by increasing salt levels in the soil.
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If it doesn't, get a different pot or drill holes into the bottom. 3. Prune dead foliage. Scan the poinsettia for old leaves that have shriveled up or lost their color and pluck them away by hand. Be sure to remove any leaves that have already fallen into the plant's container, as well.
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Leave Bits of Stem Intact. If the stems are completely dead but the plant roots are still alive, don't trim the dead stems all the way down to the roots. Leave about five centimetres of the stem intact above the soil. When you manage to revive the plant, new growth will sprout from them.
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3. Prune the Dead Parts. Remove all dead parts of the plant, so its energy is used to save those parts, which still have life. Begin by pruning the dead foliage first and then trimming the dead stems, one third at a time, until you notice green growth. New stems will emerge from trimmed ones.
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Allow plants to soak for 30 minutes or until the topsoil feels damp. After soaking, it is important to allow excess water to drain out of the pot. Pull the plug on your sink or tub and allow plants to drain for another 10-15 minutes. If using a bucket, place the plant in a tray to catch draining water.
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To save an overwatered plant from dying, do the following: Remove the plant from the overly saturated soil. Look for root rot—if it's present, a portion of the roots will be mushy and brown. Remove the damaged roots, carefully rinsing them clean with water. Repot your plant in a well-draining pot with fresh soil.
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1. Cover the area around your bush with 1-2 inches (2.5-5.1 cm) of mulch. Purchase an organic or an inorganic mulch online or at a home and gardening store. Sprinkle the mulch around the rose bush in an even layer. Leave 1 inch (2.5 cm) of clearance around the base of the bush.
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Carefully remove the plant from its pot and examine its roots. Gently rinse off the roots, trim off the rotten ones, and then repot with fresh potting mix. From here on in, back off a bit on the moisture-the top inch or so of the soil should be dry before you reach for that watering can. 8.
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Step 4: Remove dead leaves. Plants that are deteriorating will likely have dead leaves, and you'll need to get rid of them. Be ruthless: If leaves are completely brown, they're not coming back.
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It is vital to disinfect the blades to lower the chances of disease and fungi spread. Step 2 - Once the tools are ready, it is time to get rid of all the Junipers turning brown inside. So, browse through all the branches, and examine the plant. Go on to remove the dead branches.